Tuesday, October 31, 2006
Saturday Night at Baar Fun Fun in Montevideo, Uruguay
Saturday, October 28, 2006
Founded in 1895, Baar Fun Fun is the place to hear tango in Montevideo, or so I was told by some musicians in Buenos Aires. Though has been in its current location for only the last 18 years or so, the bar oozes its history through the many photographs plastered on the walls, including an autographed photo of the legendary Carlos Gardel, who apparently visited the bar in 1933. The story goes that upon tasting an “uvita,” a sweet wine drink that is the specialty of the house, Gardel was so inspired he burst into a tango song right there and then, belly up to the bar, without any accompaniment. I did not taste one myself, but if that story is even partly true it must be pretty good.
We were seated at a table right next to the small stage, upon which were seated a bandoneonist and a guitar player. These musicians accompanied two different singers who alternated short sets of six or seven songs. One of the singers was a woman who could have been in her late sixties or seventies, the other was a man who was probably forty. They were both dressed in outfits that were at once outrageous and entirely appropriate. For her a short white dress, white high heel shoes, a white lace shirt with a white bra; for him a dark suit with no tie, unbuttoned far down the chest with a silver cross around the neck. This is the visual definition of a “grasa” tango singer, a “fatty” or “greasy” style that can often come off as too much, but which, in this context, felt—and sounded—absolutely great.
The singers stood on the floor in front of the small stage and pranced around the room as they sang, kissing friends on the cheek as they came in, approaching people at tables and singing right into their eyes then quickly moving on. A very old waiter who has worked at the bar for many years was celebrating his 78th birthday that night, and the singers would have him sing lines into the microphone as he walked by with orders.
The bar itself is rather small, and many people without reservations were turned away at the door, but those who were there seemed to enjoy themselves immensely, singing along to the classics of the tango repertoire that were played well into the next morning. Among the most impressive musical moments came later into the evening, as audience members shouted out many different requests to the male singer. “I can’t do all of those,” he said, “I can’t do all of those.” Then, with a gleam in his eye, he shouted, “Yes, yes! I will do all of them!” He then launched into a medley of about six classic tango songs that he strung together on the spot through nods and winks to the musicians, who kept right there with him throughout. The audience, of course, went crazy over this, singing along and shouting approval and applause when the singer finally winded up on the last chord. It was an amazing feat, something I fell very lucky to have been a part of.
For a visitor like me, going to the Baar Fun Fun was more about temporarily participating in a joyous and exuberant musical community than in hearing a concert of a specific musician or singer. It was refreshing for me to hear tango, at least on this night and at this place, as truly popular music.
Related Link
http://www.barfunfun.com/
Founded in 1895, Baar Fun Fun is the place to hear tango in Montevideo, or so I was told by some musicians in Buenos Aires. Though has been in its current location for only the last 18 years or so, the bar oozes its history through the many photographs plastered on the walls, including an autographed photo of the legendary Carlos Gardel, who apparently visited the bar in 1933. The story goes that upon tasting an “uvita,” a sweet wine drink that is the specialty of the house, Gardel was so inspired he burst into a tango song right there and then, belly up to the bar, without any accompaniment. I did not taste one myself, but if that story is even partly true it must be pretty good.
We were seated at a table right next to the small stage, upon which were seated a bandoneonist and a guitar player. These musicians accompanied two different singers who alternated short sets of six or seven songs. One of the singers was a woman who could have been in her late sixties or seventies, the other was a man who was probably forty. They were both dressed in outfits that were at once outrageous and entirely appropriate. For her a short white dress, white high heel shoes, a white lace shirt with a white bra; for him a dark suit with no tie, unbuttoned far down the chest with a silver cross around the neck. This is the visual definition of a “grasa” tango singer, a “fatty” or “greasy” style that can often come off as too much, but which, in this context, felt—and sounded—absolutely great.
The singers stood on the floor in front of the small stage and pranced around the room as they sang, kissing friends on the cheek as they came in, approaching people at tables and singing right into their eyes then quickly moving on. A very old waiter who has worked at the bar for many years was celebrating his 78th birthday that night, and the singers would have him sing lines into the microphone as he walked by with orders.
The bar itself is rather small, and many people without reservations were turned away at the door, but those who were there seemed to enjoy themselves immensely, singing along to the classics of the tango repertoire that were played well into the next morning. Among the most impressive musical moments came later into the evening, as audience members shouted out many different requests to the male singer. “I can’t do all of those,” he said, “I can’t do all of those.” Then, with a gleam in his eye, he shouted, “Yes, yes! I will do all of them!” He then launched into a medley of about six classic tango songs that he strung together on the spot through nods and winks to the musicians, who kept right there with him throughout. The audience, of course, went crazy over this, singing along and shouting approval and applause when the singer finally winded up on the last chord. It was an amazing feat, something I fell very lucky to have been a part of.
For a visitor like me, going to the Baar Fun Fun was more about temporarily participating in a joyous and exuberant musical community than in hearing a concert of a specific musician or singer. It was refreshing for me to hear tango, at least on this night and at this place, as truly popular music.
Related Link
http://www.barfunfun.com/
